A place to retreat to

“You know, the best way to describe why people surf is how you feel every time you go into the ocean. It’s a soul-fix, regardless of what the surf is like. When you get out of the water, you peel off your wetsuit and dig your feet into the warm sand…

The breeze plays over your skin like cool peppermint. Every pore sings. You’re refreshed spiritually and physically, whether you are at the local beach or on the other side of the planet. Sure, there’s a lot of factions in surfing, don’t get me wrong, but the overriding universal draw for all surfers is that addiction to being immersed in seawater. And slowly, over the years, it changes your perspective on life and what matters in it.”

[Dave Parmenter](https://www.surfersjournal.com/.../soundings-dave-parmenter/)